When you live in Buenos Aires and your husband is a vegetarian (and yes, I realize this statement does not apply to a lot of people), it’s not necessarily easy to find a veggie-friendly meal out. Having said that, Buenos Aires has become quite a bit more vegetarian-friendly in the last few years with articles in the NY Times and others touting meat-free restaurants. Of course, Indian food is always a safe bet. However, there aren’t a whole lot of Indians in Argentina (only about 1,200 or so Wikipedia says), so the Indian restaurant scene is a bit limited. Let’s just say there is no Little India, like Sixth Street in NYC.
But we have found a few places we like and it’s nice to get out for a meal where there is (occasionally) adult conversation. When we go out for Indian, we always get veggie samosas to start, either channa saag (my personal favorite) or saag paneer (Ryan’s) and then some other veggie main course, like veggie biryani or aloo gobi (cauliflower and potato tomato curry).
Here’s a quick round-up of the Indian restaurants we’ve tried in Buenos Aires:
Mumbai
Honduras 5684; Palermo Hollywood
Tel: 4775-9791
http://www.mumbai.restaurant.com.ar
This place is my favorite. It’s got the red velvet drapery bordello thing happening which reminds me of so many of the places on Sixth Street in NYC, but it’s more spacious and a step up in terms of quality of service and food. And they get extra points for making me Chana Saag even though it’s not on the menu. Excellent mushroom bhajee and great garlic naan. And you have the option of going mild, spicy or “Indian spicy” — and it really is spicy, which is usually not the case in BsAs (there is a major aversion to spicy food here, which is mindboggling to me, Queen of Hot Sauce).
Taj Mahal
Nicaragua 4345; Palermo
Tel: 4831-5716
http://www.tajmahalbuenosaires.com.ar
I recently tried this place out on a girls’ night out and had mixed feelings. The space was nice, a bit more contemporary Indian with nice framed elephant embroideries and subtle lighting (no bordello drapery here). I felt like it was difficult to judge the food, as we all ended up ordering very similar things — either that or everything tastes alike! I had a chicken tikka masala, which was tasty, but rather salty. A friend’s dal was quite good, but I always feel like that’s more of a side than a main course. I think we need to give this place another go and do a full-on veg meal, so I’m reserving judgment until then.
UPDATE: Went last weekend for our 4th anniversary (yes, I was also wondering why we weren’t on a plane to Mendoza for the weekend…) and had an all-veg meal. And while we branched out and tried what I was hoping would be very different main dishes (aloo gobi, mushroom mutter, vegetable dumplings in a white sauce), many ended up tasting really similar! So, I’m afraid that may be the way it is here. Having said that, if you like spicy tomato-based curries, then you’ll love this place.
Tandoor
Laprida 1293
Tel: 4821-3676
http://www.tandoor.com.ar
The food is really good here, but the atmosphere at Tandoor is akin to dining at the morgue…very, um, quiet. Nevertheless, the space is a lovely windowed corner in Barrio Norte and the service was excellent (if a bit stiff — sorry, no pun intended). No channa saag, but the saag paneer was very good. We also had the aloo gobi, which was nice. The real highlight was the vegetable samosas — they were flavorful and fluffy, not just blobs of fried potato with a pea or two thrown in. Tandoor has a more varied menu than the other places we’ve been, and they’ve apparently imported not only their very own tandoor oven from India, but the chef as well! A bit pricier than the other restaurants. Good solid food, but a bit sedate.
Bangalore
Humboldt 1416; Palermo Hollywood
Tel: 4779-2621
Now if you’re looking for a party spot, Bangalore would be it. It’s essentially a cross between a curry joint and an English pub. The downstairs area is full-on pub where you can get dosas and basic pub grub (fries, burgers, etc.), along with jugs of gin and tonic and several different beers (including locally made cider and three ales from the Pilar-based Stones Brewery. You can also get the same menu that’s offered upstairs. Upstairs — the “restaurant” part — is a groovy, low-ceilinged little seating area with just a few low tables with comfy cushions and pretty lamps. Very romantic (minus The Who, which I seem to recall was blaring at top volume from the pub area down below). The food, however, left a bit to be desired. I realize sometimes a shrimp curry is just that — shrimp in a curry. I was a bit surprised when I got my plate and there was not a single other vegetable in the dish. What was really disturbing was when Ryan ordered the calabaza (directly translated as pumpkin, but what we’d call squash in the US) curry and received, literally, a giant hunk of calabaza sitting in a puddle of curry. Very odd. And not terribly good. I will say their chapati was excellent, but other than that, not impressed with the food. Stick to the pub (and gin & tonics) downstairs.